Another poignant reflection on the difference between romantic ideals and cold hard reality. I spent much of my twenties in Oklahoma City which had a whole lot of charm for the young me but quickly showed itself to be a tough place to become an adult. I know your first brush with Valencia was souring, but you know what they say about bad dress rehearsals leading to great opening nights…
This is a well-told story and fascinating to read about how the culture has evolved over time there and what your journey has been like. Thank you sharing it. I hope Valencia is a great next chapter for you all! 💕
Did you happen to know a guy called Bill Gormley? Big tall lovely American guy I knew years and years ago. He died in about 2017 but lived his retirement dream of moving to Koh Phangan. I visited the island briefly in about 1990, it was really nice back then.
What am epic journey you've been on Kaila! You've shown great resilience. Your mindset is something to be valued. So many people have honeymoonesque visions of moving abroad but they rarely materials, maybe just in brief moments that make the effort all worth it. I don't doubt that you will take your experience from Thailand and thrive in Spain.
About 1/4th through the article, I started thinking, “These people would probably love Comunidad Valencia,” and then I got to the end, haha. By the way, I live in Castellon (just North of Valencia). It has a much more local vibe, way better beaches, closer mountains, and, of course, much cheaper housing. But, Valencia is more cosmopolitan and the city centre is prettier (and 100x more crowded and full of English lads and now Americans).
Haha isn't that funny! Ah yes I've heard of Castellon, I met someone from there actually! I have to say, I'm taken by Valencia's cosmopolitan vibe. I'm really excited for the move!
Fascinating read! I’m Harrison, an ex fine dining industry line cook. My stack "The Secret Ingredient" adapts hit restaurant recipes (mostly NYC and L.A.) for easy home cooking.
Some similar issues to China here…some are just developing country issues, although Thailand is interesting because it has such a large tourism sector. I remain so interested in this question of what we bring with us when we live in another place. What do we contribute? I’ve read a lot on the Internet accusing Westerners of being "white saviours" whenever they leave the West, but I find dynamics are often far more complex. Like you, I had no foreign income or assets and this is an entirely different way to live somewhere else. I’ve made a living from my Western education, but the value attached to that depends on the local economy. Many places need skilled labour and the exchange tends to work best when the government limits the inflow of foreigners to avoid these problems of gentrification, I guess you'd call them.
Economic development is complex. There’s always winners and losers. It’s hard to hold rigidly to black and white interpretations. It often looks ugly yet there’s always a big picture too. Poverty degrades human dignity and I don’t romanticize it.
Thanks for your comment Liya! Yes I completely agree, and I think it's a matter of how we show up. Some people do portray the White Savior in all its cringey, selfish glory. Others — and there are plenty of them here on Substack — show up with a more open heart, ready to both shape and be shaped by the community they enter.
Good luck on your journey. Living a long time in Koh Phangan is very committed - I have spent time there over the years on yoga retreats - when I lived in Myanmar for 10 years - it was one of the places I went on visa runs - to escape city life, eat healthy food and relax. I can very much imagine all the downsides of life there - you described. Valencia sounds very liveable and an exciting next step.
This was a wonderful read 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻. I regret not having or taking opportunity to live in Europe, even for a short time. I am 65 now and retiring but still considering it. The Costa Blanca in Spain and the Tuscany or northern region of Italy are both on my short list with Uruguay trailing behind. I just began Italian language classes but now wondering if I should switch to Spanish. It’s a nice problem to have. I look forward to reading of your adventures in Valencia.
Thank you for sharing such an authentic view of life on this beautiful island. I can truly feel both the challenges and the deep love you have for this place.
Just...an incredible journey, the highs and lows and highs and...wow. I've had my fair share of rough experiences, but they've been nothing like what you've been through in Thailand. I don't think I would've been able to hack it, I'm not the most resilient person in the world.
Haha yeah there've been plenty of times I've been shocked we made it as long as we have. Not that it's a badge of honour but it's definitely made us very resilient! Glad you enjoyed the read, Daniel.
I have parallels with your story. Much of your account rings true. I think you can be proud of creating business and investment opportunities there. My quibble is that you are not “OGs” and Phanang was never “your” island. Unless you speak fluent Thai with Thai friends or you’ve married a local, you’re a foreigner and an outsider. To the Thais, you’re a medium-termer, as you call it. (Unless I misunderstood your version of integration.) And the same housing boom that is dislocating people is the same boom that has supported the villa construction and investment businesses you guys have. The islanders have to deal with it: you can leave.
Thanks for your thoughtful comment, Jamie. I agree with a lot of what you said — and you’re absolutely right: none of us foreigners can ever truly call Koh Phangan "ours." That was part of what I was trying to acknowledge in the piece. (And yes, calling ourselves the "Phangan OGs" was definitely tongue-in-cheek — there are plenty of people far more original and more gangster than us!)
One small distinction I would make is that the earlier "boom" was different from what’s happening now. Back then, it was a real mixed bag — people arriving with very little, working together with the local community to build something. It wasn’t about taking over — it was about creating something organically. And the Thais genuinely benefited from that early setup too — through the new services, businesses, and tourism income that grew the island sustainably for years.
What’s happening now feels very different. Yes, there’s more money flowing through — but because it feels like a takeover rather than a collaboration, we’re seeing real gentrification for the first time, with huge groups of people that have spending power unmatchable by most people who've lived here for years, literally taking over entire swaths of the island. And that changes everything.
I really appreciate you bringing up these points — it’s such a complicated conversation, and I’m grateful to be able to have it.
Uncontrolled tourism ruins every place where it’s allowed to happen. Drives residents out. Kills all business that’s not tourist orientated.. Swamped with bumper to bumper traffic. Locals stores turned into gift shops selling t-shirts and plastic junk. It happens everywhere.
If one line about an investment property makes you dismiss a 4,000-word story about 15 years of real life, then maybe it was never a story you were meant to connect with.
Another poignant reflection on the difference between romantic ideals and cold hard reality. I spent much of my twenties in Oklahoma City which had a whole lot of charm for the young me but quickly showed itself to be a tough place to become an adult. I know your first brush with Valencia was souring, but you know what they say about bad dress rehearsals leading to great opening nights…
Yes it's so important to recognise that it's not just the place that changed but us too. And we either grow together or apart!
Thanks Gillian, fingers crossed! 🤞🤞
This is a well-told story and fascinating to read about how the culture has evolved over time there and what your journey has been like. Thank you sharing it. I hope Valencia is a great next chapter for you all! 💕
Thank you so much, Karen!
Did you happen to know a guy called Bill Gormley? Big tall lovely American guy I knew years and years ago. He died in about 2017 but lived his retirement dream of moving to Koh Phangan. I visited the island briefly in about 1990, it was really nice back then.
I did not! But good for him for realising his retirement dream before he died. 🥰
Really enjoyed your story telling too! I’m excited to follow along into your journey to Valencia.
Oh thank you! I look forward to sharing it.
What am epic journey you've been on Kaila! You've shown great resilience. Your mindset is something to be valued. So many people have honeymoonesque visions of moving abroad but they rarely materials, maybe just in brief moments that make the effort all worth it. I don't doubt that you will take your experience from Thailand and thrive in Spain.
Aw thanks Simo! It's a mindset built on the struggles and tribulations of living abroad for so long! Appreciate the vote of confidence.
About 1/4th through the article, I started thinking, “These people would probably love Comunidad Valencia,” and then I got to the end, haha. By the way, I live in Castellon (just North of Valencia). It has a much more local vibe, way better beaches, closer mountains, and, of course, much cheaper housing. But, Valencia is more cosmopolitan and the city centre is prettier (and 100x more crowded and full of English lads and now Americans).
Haha isn't that funny! Ah yes I've heard of Castellon, I met someone from there actually! I have to say, I'm taken by Valencia's cosmopolitan vibe. I'm really excited for the move!
I'm sure you’ll love it! I'm there every second weekend. €10 train pass for 3 months.
That's so good!
Fascinating read! I’m Harrison, an ex fine dining industry line cook. My stack "The Secret Ingredient" adapts hit restaurant recipes (mostly NYC and L.A.) for easy home cooking.
check us out:
https://thesecretingredient.substack.com
Truth! This needs to be said more often, thanks Ana!
Some similar issues to China here…some are just developing country issues, although Thailand is interesting because it has such a large tourism sector. I remain so interested in this question of what we bring with us when we live in another place. What do we contribute? I’ve read a lot on the Internet accusing Westerners of being "white saviours" whenever they leave the West, but I find dynamics are often far more complex. Like you, I had no foreign income or assets and this is an entirely different way to live somewhere else. I’ve made a living from my Western education, but the value attached to that depends on the local economy. Many places need skilled labour and the exchange tends to work best when the government limits the inflow of foreigners to avoid these problems of gentrification, I guess you'd call them.
Economic development is complex. There’s always winners and losers. It’s hard to hold rigidly to black and white interpretations. It often looks ugly yet there’s always a big picture too. Poverty degrades human dignity and I don’t romanticize it.
Very interesting read. I enjoyed it, thanks!
Thanks for your comment Liya! Yes I completely agree, and I think it's a matter of how we show up. Some people do portray the White Savior in all its cringey, selfish glory. Others — and there are plenty of them here on Substack — show up with a more open heart, ready to both shape and be shaped by the community they enter.
Good luck on your journey. Living a long time in Koh Phangan is very committed - I have spent time there over the years on yoga retreats - when I lived in Myanmar for 10 years - it was one of the places I went on visa runs - to escape city life, eat healthy food and relax. I can very much imagine all the downsides of life there - you described. Valencia sounds very liveable and an exciting next step.
Ah yes than you get it!! Thanks Catriona. 🥰
This was a wonderful read 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻. I regret not having or taking opportunity to live in Europe, even for a short time. I am 65 now and retiring but still considering it. The Costa Blanca in Spain and the Tuscany or northern region of Italy are both on my short list with Uruguay trailing behind. I just began Italian language classes but now wondering if I should switch to Spanish. It’s a nice problem to have. I look forward to reading of your adventures in Valencia.
Oh neat well certainly sounds like you have lots of options, Brian! Will be interesting to see which you choose for your retirement years.
Thank you for sharing such an authentic view of life on this beautiful island. I can truly feel both the challenges and the deep love you have for this place.
Aww that's great, glad I was able to get that across.
Just...an incredible journey, the highs and lows and highs and...wow. I've had my fair share of rough experiences, but they've been nothing like what you've been through in Thailand. I don't think I would've been able to hack it, I'm not the most resilient person in the world.
Haha yeah there've been plenty of times I've been shocked we made it as long as we have. Not that it's a badge of honour but it's definitely made us very resilient! Glad you enjoyed the read, Daniel.
I have parallels with your story. Much of your account rings true. I think you can be proud of creating business and investment opportunities there. My quibble is that you are not “OGs” and Phanang was never “your” island. Unless you speak fluent Thai with Thai friends or you’ve married a local, you’re a foreigner and an outsider. To the Thais, you’re a medium-termer, as you call it. (Unless I misunderstood your version of integration.) And the same housing boom that is dislocating people is the same boom that has supported the villa construction and investment businesses you guys have. The islanders have to deal with it: you can leave.
Thanks for your thoughtful comment, Jamie. I agree with a lot of what you said — and you’re absolutely right: none of us foreigners can ever truly call Koh Phangan "ours." That was part of what I was trying to acknowledge in the piece. (And yes, calling ourselves the "Phangan OGs" was definitely tongue-in-cheek — there are plenty of people far more original and more gangster than us!)
One small distinction I would make is that the earlier "boom" was different from what’s happening now. Back then, it was a real mixed bag — people arriving with very little, working together with the local community to build something. It wasn’t about taking over — it was about creating something organically. And the Thais genuinely benefited from that early setup too — through the new services, businesses, and tourism income that grew the island sustainably for years.
What’s happening now feels very different. Yes, there’s more money flowing through — but because it feels like a takeover rather than a collaboration, we’re seeing real gentrification for the first time, with huge groups of people that have spending power unmatchable by most people who've lived here for years, literally taking over entire swaths of the island. And that changes everything.
I really appreciate you bringing up these points — it’s such a complicated conversation, and I’m grateful to be able to have it.
Uncontrolled tourism ruins every place where it’s allowed to happen. Drives residents out. Kills all business that’s not tourist orientated.. Swamped with bumper to bumper traffic. Locals stores turned into gift shops selling t-shirts and plastic junk. It happens everywhere.
“Once we sell our investment property…”
If you had started with that I’d not even spend a second reading the rest of your opinion.
Nice job burying it at the end.
If one line about an investment property makes you dismiss a 4,000-word story about 15 years of real life, then maybe it was never a story you were meant to connect with.
Thank you for writing it.